I’ve pressed hundreds of flowers at this point, from Trader Joe’s ranunculus in the middle of a January snowstorm to roses, cosmos, and cherry blossoms straight from my garden. I’ve made my own large flower press, tried every type of paper, and ruined a fair number of blooms learning what actually works.
This is the guide I wish I’d had when I started. Whether you just bought your first flower press or you’ve been at it a while and want to sharpen your skills, I’m going to share everything: how to use a flower press step by step, which flowers press beautifully (and which ones are a waste of your time), how to troubleshoot common problems, and what to actually make with your pressed flowers once they’re done.
Let’s get into it.
Welcome! I’m Jennifer, and I’ve always believed nature is the most beautiful art supply. For years, I’ve been preserving New England’s blooms and foliage through pressing, drying, and crafting. Let me show you how to capture a little bit of the season and bring it indoors—simply and beautifully.
Why Use a Flower Press?
Before we get into the how-to, let’s talk about why a flower press is such a great tool for pressing flowers. Here’s what makes it stand out:
- Even Pressure: A press applies consistent pressure across the whole surface, so flowers dry flat instead of lumpy.
- Faster Drying Times: 1–3 weeks versus 4–6 weeks in a book, depending on the flower. (The microwave method is even faster, more on that below.)
- Multiple layers: A good press lets you dry many flowers at once. Mine has 10 layers, so I can run through a whole cutting garden harvest in one go.
- Reusable: Unlike books, which can get damaged or stained, a flower press is designed for repeated use.
- Better results: Simply put, pressed flowers from a press look more professional than book-pressed flowers.
If you’re serious about pressed flower art, a flower press is a worthwhile investment. Plus, it’s a fun and satisfying tool to use!
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase through my links, at no extra cost to you. Read my disclosure policy here.
How to Choose the Right Flower Press
Not all flower presses are created equal, so it’s important to choose one that suits your needs. Here’s what to look for:
What Size Do You Need?
The size you need depends on what you plan to press.
Smaller presses (5×7 inches) are perfectly fine for delicate flowers and beginners. If you want to press larger blooms, daisies, roses, or big hydrangea clusters, or you just want to press a lot at once, go bigger. I use an 11×11-inch press, and I love it. It handles everything from tiny wax flowers to longer-stemmed daffodils.
- Smaller presses (5×7 inches) are great for beginners and for pressing small flowers.
- Larger presses (8×10 inches or more) are ideal for bigger blooms or multiple flowers at once.
- Why I Chose This Size: I opted for an 11×11-inch flower press because it allows me to press a lot of flowers at once. Plus, the larger size is perfect for pressing bigger blooms from my garden, like peonies or sunflowers, which I’m excited to try this summer!
Flower Presses
2. Number of Layers:
More layers = more flowers at once. If you’re pressing from a cut flower garden during peak bloom season, you’ll want at least 6–10 layers. My 10-layer press means I can press an entire harvest in one session instead of rotating batches over weeks.
- Some presses come with just a few layers, while others (like mine) have up to 10 layers.
- More layers mean you can press more flowers at the same time, which is a huge time-saver.
- Why I Chose This Feature: The 10-layer capacity of my press lets me press a variety of flowers and foliage in one go, making it super efficient for larger projects.
3. Material
Wooden presses are the classic choice and work beautifully. Metal screw presses apply more pressure and are great for thicker flowers, but wood is more than sufficient for most blooms.
- Wooden presses are classic and durable, but make sure they’re made with sturdy wood.
- Metal screw presses provide more pressure and are great for thicker flowers.
- Why I Chose This Material: My press is made from natural, untreated wood, which is safe for pressing flowers and adds a rustic charm to my crafting space.
4. Closure Type: Screws vs. Straps
Traditional wooden presses use wing-nut screws. They work great, but tightening them evenly takes practice. Cam-buckle strap presses (like the DIY version I made recently) are actually easier to use: you pull the straps tight, and they apply even pressure without the fussing. Either works; it’s personal preference.
5. Portability
- If you plan to take your press on the go (e.g., for nature walks), look for a compact, lightweight design.
- Why This Works for Me: While my 11×11-inch press isn’t the most portable, it does come with a travel bag. It’s perfect for my home studio where I do most of my crafting.
- I’m grabbing one of these mini presses to keep in my bag this summer! There are so many times that I am out and about and spot a pretty wildflower or interesting leaf! Now I can pop them right into a press.
Want To Make Your Own?
I built my own large flower press using pine boards and cam-buckle straps. No bolts, no drill required beyond basic assembly. It’s one of my favorite projects and costs a fraction of a store-bought press at the same size. You can find my full tutorial at the link below.
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flower press
Here’s the flower press I use; it has 10 layers, which is a huge time-saver to do lots of blooms at once for around $25.
Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Flower Press
Now that you’ve chosen your flower press, let’s get started! Here’s how to use it:
Step 1: Harvest or Source Your Flowers
If you’re pressing from your garden, timing matters. The best window is mid-morning, after the dew has dried but before the afternoon heat sets in. Pick flowers at peak bloom or just before. Avoid flowers that are already going to seed or browning at the edges; they won’t press well at all.
If you’re buying flowers (totally valid — I pressed Trader Joe’s flowers through my first winter of pressing), choose the freshest stems you can find. Wax flowers, statice, and daffodils from the grocery store are all excellent choices.
Pro Tip: Press flowers the same day you harvest them. The longer they sit, the more moisture they lose unevenly, which leads to curling and browning.
Step 2: Prep Your Flowers
A little prep goes a long way!
- Avoid flowers with dew or moisture, as this can cause mold.
- Remove stems unless you want them; stems add bulk and slow drying.
- Gently remove any damaged outer petals.
- For bulky flowers (like large roses): disassemble them. Press individual petals or slice the flower in half lengthwise. This is the single biggest mistake beginners make: trying to press a whole thick flower and wondering why it goes moldy.
- Shake off any bugs. Seriously, check!
Step 3: Layer Your Press
- The layering order matters. Here’s mine:
- Bottom board of the press
- Cardboard layer (stiff, helps with even pressure & also air-flow)
- Blotting sheet made for flower pressing,
- Flowers, arranged face down and not overlapping
- Another sheet of absorbent paper on top
- Another cardboard layer
- Repeat for each additional layer of flowers
- Top board
Special circumstances
For delicate or thicker flowers, swap the paper for something gentler. For thicker flowers like daisies, I sometimes substitute large square cotton pads (the kind you’d use for skincare) in place of my blotting paper. They cradle the flower gently while still absorbing moisture really well. I also use this method for very delicate flowers like bleeding hearts for example.
I’ve also used large felt sheets to create a soft surface that protects fragile petals that would otherwise crease or tear against paper. It’s a small swap that makes a big difference with the flowers that need a little extra care.
Important To Remember!
One thing to keep in mind as you start pressing flowers: Don’t overcrowd. Give each flower room to breathe. Overlapping flowers will stick together, and both will be ruined.
Step 4: Apply Pressure
Close your press, tightening firmly and evenly. If you have wing-nut screws, tighten them in a diagonal pattern (like tightening lug nuts on a tire) so the pressure is even across the whole press. Snug is good; you don’t need to crank it as tight as possible.
- Close the flower press and tighten the screws or straps evenly to apply pressure.
- Tip: Make sure the pressure is consistent across the entire press.
Step 5: Wait & Check
Set your press in a dry, well-ventilated spot. For the first week, check every 2–3 days and swap out the absorbent paper if it feels damp. After the first week, you can check less frequently. Most flowers are done in 1–3 weeks; thicker ones may need 4 weeks.
- Leave the press in a cool, dry place for 1–3 weeks, depending on the flowers and humidity.
- Check the flowers periodically and change the absorbent paper every few days to prevent moisture buildup.
- Tip: Thicker flowers may take longer to dry, so be patient!
How do you know they’re done? Petals should feel papery and stiff, not soft or pliable. They should release from the paper cleanly without tearing.
Tips For Success:
Use Fresh Flowers:Â Flowers that are past their prime may not press well.
Avoid Overcrowding:Â Give each flower enough space to dry flat.
Experiment with Different Flowers:Â Try pressing a variety of blooms to see which ones work best.
Store Your Press Properly:Â Keep your flower press in a dry place to prevent warping or damage.
The Paper Question: What to Use
The absorbent paper you use makes a real difference. Here’s a quick breakdown:
- Blotting paper: My preference. Absorbs moisture fast, doesn’t imprint texture, and is reusable after drying. Buy it in bulk if you press frequently.
- Parchment paper: Do not recommend-it is not absorbent.
- Watercolor paper: Works in a pinch and is widely available, but the texture can show on very delicate petals.
- Paper towels: Avoid. The texture imprints on petals, and it doesn’t absorb as efficiently.
- Newspaper: Old-school method absorbs well, but ink can transfer to light-colored flowers.
- Cotton pads (square facial pads): A great substitute for blotting paper when working with thicker flowers like daisies. Large square cotton pads absorb moisture well and cushion petals more gently than paper. Easy to find at any drugstore.
- Felt sheets: My choice for when I am pressing lots of very delicate flowers together. The soft surface protects fragile petals that would crease or tear against paper. Works best for flowers where preserving shape matters more than speed of drying.
Don’t want to open your press?
If you just need to preserve one flower, skip the press entirely. Tuck the flower inside a cone coffee filter (cone filters work better than flat ones because they cradle the flower and keep petals in place), then press it between the pages of a heavy book.
The Pressed Flower Guide: What Works (and What Doesn’t)
This is the section I wish had existed when I started. I’ve pressed all of these flowers myself; some are garden favorites, some are store-bought. Here’s what I’ve learned.
|
Flower |
Color Retention |
Dry Time |
Notes |
|
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Pansies |
Excellent |
1-2 weeks |
|
|
|
Wax Flowers |
Excellent |
2 weeks |
Retains vivid purple beautifully. A pressed flower superstar |
|
|
Cosmos |
Good |
1-2 weeks |
|
|
|
Ferns & Leaves |
Good |
1-2 weeks |
|
|
|
Wildflowers |
Varies |
1-3 weeks |
|
|
|
Primrose |
Good |
2 weeks |
|
|
|
Cherry Blossoms |
Good |
1-2 weeks |
|
|
|
Lily of the Valley |
Fair |
1-2 weeks |
The arched stem presses beautifully, but color fades. |
|
|
Nasturtium |
Good |
2-3 weeks |
|
|
|
Hydrangeas |
Fair |
2-3 weeks |
|
|
|
Daffodils |
Good |
2-3 weeks |
Take time to arrange and shape daffodil petals, try some on the side. |
|
|
Roses |
Good |
2-3+ weeks |
|
My Detailed Notes by Flower
Here are a few of the commonly found garden flowers that I’ve tried pressing.
Pansies: My #1 Recommendation for Beginners
If you’ve never pressed flowers before, start with pansies. They have a naturally flat face, thin petals, and they press absolutely perfectly every single time. Colors retain beautifully: purple, yellow, deep burgundy, tricolor, and they look gorgeous in any project. They’re also inexpensive and widely available in spring at any garden center. I cannot recommend these enough.
Statice & German Statice
Both types are excellent. Traditional statice keeps its vibrant purple beautifully and is one of the most reliable flowers I press. German statice (with the tiny flower heads) dries quickly and makes a fantastic, delicate filler. If you’re building a pressed flower arrangement, statice is your best friend.
Cosmos
Cosmos are a cut garden staple and press really well. The key is to pick them just before they’re fully open. The petals are thinner at that stage and will press flatter. A fully open cosmos can work, but you might get some waviness at the edges. Colors (pink, white, magenta) hold well.
Ferns & Leaves
Honestly underrated. Ferns press flat and quickly, and they add so much to botanical arrangements; they’re the greenery that makes everything else pop. Try maidenhair fern for a delicate lace-like texture. Fall leaves are also spectacular pressed, especially when the color has just started turning.
Buttercups & Wildflowers
Small, simple, and excellent. Buttercups are tiny and press very easily. Wildflowers vary depending on the species, but most press beautifully; they have a natural, meadow-garden look that’s hard to replicate with cultivated flowers. I love pressing Queen Anne’s lace for the intricate flat texture.
Primrose
A great early spring option when your garden doesn’t have much else going on. I bought pots at Trader Joe’s to use for pressing. The flal face presses cleanly, and colors hold reasonably well. I love the contrast with the yellow centers, too.
I also love how evening primrose flowers press! They pop up all over my perennial garden, and to be honest used to annoy me!! But now I know they look better pressed than showing up under my rose bush.
Hydrangeas
I’ve pressed both whole blossoms and individual florets of hydrangeas. By pressing the whole flower, you’ll get some browning, especially with blue and purple varieties, but some will be perfectly usable. I think the individual flowers are much easier to work with overall.
My hot tip: press hydrangeas at the end of the season, when the blooms have already started papering and changing color naturally. Those press beautifully, and the muted antique tones are actually stunning.
Roses
For beginners, I would highly suggest starting out by pressing the indivdual rose petals. You can always reconstruct the rose with the dried petals & archival glue if you plan on making framed art later on.
Flowers to Skip (Learn From My Mistakes)
Not every flower turned out beautifully; some were real duds. Here are the ones I think you should skip and save yourself the trouble. Some flowers just don’t dry evenly, and others are too juicy and prone to mold. But hey, you won’t know until you try… so I tried so you don’t have to.
Skip These
- Mums: Thick, fleshy petals that don’t dry evenly and lose almost all their color. Not worth your press layers.
- Asters: Petals curl and brown reliably. When there are so many easier flowers that press beautifully, asters just aren’t worth the effort.
- Peonies: I know, I know. They’re gorgeous. But all those layers of petals trap moisture, and you’ll almost always end up with mold. A heartbreaking flower to write off, but here we are.
- Tulips: Petals go translucent and mushy. The color disappears, and they tend to fall apart in the press.
- Sunflowers: The center is the culprit. It’s far too thick to dry evenly, which means the whole flower suffers. If you’re determined, press individual petals only.
- Orchids: Waxy, thick, and uncooperative. Occasionally, individual petals work, but it’s rarely worth the effort.
- Red flowers in general: Reds are one of the hardest colors to preserve. Most red flowers: red tulips, red roses, red dahlias, go very dark brown in the press. It’s a pigment thing, not a technique thing, so don’t blame yourself.
- Blue flowers (delphiniums, blue hydrangeas): Blue is the hardest color to retain in pressing, full stop. It almost always shifts to greenish or grey. If you love blue in your botanical work, dried flowers or fabric will serve you better than pressed ones.
Lessons Learned:
Flat, Thin Flowers Work Best:Â Flowers like wax flowers and statice have thin petals that dry quickly and evenly.
Thicker Flowers Can Be Tricky:Â Flowers with fleshy petals, like mums and asters, tend to curl or brown.
Patience is Key:Â Some flowers, like yellow daisies, may need extra time in the press to dry completely.
Pressing Flowers from Your Garden: What to Know
Pressing from your own cut flower garden is one of the most satisfying parts of the garden-to-home workflow. A few things I’ve learned:
Harvest Time
Pick mid-morning after dew has dried. Wet flowers are the number one cause of mold.
For most flowers, press at peak bloom or just before. Flowers past their prime press poorly.
Exception: Hydrangeas are better at the end of the season when they’re papering naturally.
Learn More About The Flowers That I Grow For Drying
Seasonal Flow from a New England Cut Garden
Here’s roughly what you can expect to press through the season in Zone 6a:
Spring: Pansies, primrose, lily of the valley, cherry blossoms, daffodils, hellebores, & bleeding heart
Early Summer: Cosmos, bachelor’s button, sweet peas, delphinium, ferns, clematis, & love-in-a-mist.
Midsummer: Statice, wax flowers, black-eyed Susans, dahlias (early, individual petals), rudbeckia, & herbs.
Late Summer/Fall: Hydrangeas (end of season), ageratum, dried grasses, fall leaves (a must!)
Troubleshooting: When Things Go Wrong
Every presser has flower fails. Here are the most common problems and how to fix them.
My flowers are going moldy
Mold is caused by moisture trapped in the press. This happens when: (a) flowers had too much moisture when you pressed them, (b) you didn’t change the absorbent paper often enough in the first week, or (c) you packed the layers too tightly with thick flowers.
- Fix: Change your paper every 2 days for the first week.
- Prevent: Only press dry flowers, prep bulky flowers by disassembling them first, and don’t overcrowd layers.
My flowers are turning brown
Some browning is normal, especially with white flowers (which turn yellow) and thick-petaled flowers. But excessive browning usually means:
- The flowers were past their prime when you pressed them
- Too much moisture in the press
- The flower is just a poor candidate for pressing (looking at you, asters)
Tip: If a flower is going brown but not moldy, leave it — some brown-toned pressed flowers are beautiful in a rustic or vintage aesthetic. Dried hydrangeas and parchment-colored petals have their own charm.
My flowers are sticking to the paper
This happens with very juicy or resinous flowers, or when flowers aren’t fully dry. If a flower is sticking, it’s not done yet. Give it more time. If it still sticks when fully dry, use tweezers to gently peel it off from the edges.
My colors are fading
All pressed flowers fade over time. That’s just the nature of botanical preservation. But you can slow it down significantly:
- Keep finished flowers away from direct sunlight (UV causes fading).
- Store unused pressed flowers in an airtight container or envelope, in a cool, dry place.
- For framed art, use UV-protective glass.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Creative Uses for Flowers Pressed with a Flower Press
Once your flowers are pressed, the possibilities are endless! Here are a few ideas to inspire you:
- Bookmarks: Laminate pressed flowers for a functional keepsake.
- Decoupage Vases: Turn your pressed flowers into beautiful vases
- Framed Art: Create a beautiful botanical display for your home.
- Greeting Cards: Add a personal touch to handmade cards.
- Flower Plaques: Using vintage book pages & flowers
Now It’s Your Turn
Flower pressing is one of those crafts that sounds fussy and delicate but is actually incredibly forgiving once you understand what works. Start with something simple. And enjoy the slow, satisfying process of turning something from your garden (or your grocery store) into something you can keep forever.
See your projects featured! If you were inspired by this or any of my other DIY projects I would love to see them and add you to the Reader’s Spotlight gallery. Send a photo to me at jennifer@cottageonbunkerhill.com
xo, Jennifer
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Learn 4 Ways to Dry Flowers
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